Skiing the Serum Run Trail

Introduction (February 25, 2001)

Recipients of the Alaska Science Forum soon will receive an extra column about my trail experiences as I attempt to ski from Nenana to Nome with Andy Sterns. Andy and I began the trek on Feb. 24th, 2001, and we expect to arrive in Nome about one month later.

During our ski, we will follow the path of the 1925 Serum Run, during which 20 mushers carried diphtheria vaccine from Nenana to Nome in relay style, covering almost 800 miles in less than six days. From Nenana, the route parallels the Tanana River for 125 miles up to the village of Tanana. From Tanana, the trail heads west on the Yukon River for 260 miles until Kaltag, where it goes overland 74 miles to Unalakleet on the Bering Sea coast. From there, it's 287 miles on the Iditarod Trail to Nome.

Andy and I will skate-ski the trail, using backpacks loaded with food and survival gear. With perfect weather and infallible equipment, we could make the trip in 26 days. But everything won't be perfect along the way, so we gave ourselves one month to complete the trip.

Along the way, we will stay in villages, such as Galena, Koyukuk, Shaktoolik, and Elim. From these locations, I'll hook up to the Internet and email columns back to the Geophysical Institute Information Office so the columns can be sent to you along with the Alaska Science Forums I wrote before this trip.

1st Report (March 7, 2001)

RUBY-My friend Andy Sterns and I started skiing into the wind nine days ago from Nenana. Since then, we've covered about 250 miles of the 800 we hope to ski this month along the Serum Run trail between Nenana and Nome.

Skiing the Serum Run trail was Andy's idea. He skate-skied the Iditarod trail last year, and thought he'd like to retrace the trail of the original Serum Run, during which 20 mushers relayed diphtheria serum to Nome in 1925. Back then, dog sleds were used for the run because they were the most dependable means of winter travel.

I can testify that skate skis and backpacks are much less dependable. On days too cold for us to glide (below about zero Fahrenheit) Andy and I have crawled along. On our first day, we covered just 14 miles. Today, with sunny skies, a tailwind, and good trail on the Yukon River, we traveled 40 miles to Ruby. Here, our friends Jay and Ginger deLima have taken us in, fed us shrimp cocktail, and let us shower and wash our sour ski clothes.

Though Andy and I have skied alone on the gorgeous stretch of trail from Tanana to Ruby the past few days, we have shared the path with others. The first trail breakers were participating in the Iron Dog snowmachine race from Anchorage to Nome to Fairbanks. Like killer bees, pairs of drivers buzzed past us as we skied out of Nenana. Moving about 100 miles per hour towards Fairbanks, the drivers were the ultimate contrast to us, moving three miles per hour downriver.

Moving at more our speed are the mushers and snowmachiners trekking in the memorial Serum Run trip with Colonel Norman Vaughan. Their entourage passed us as we slogged into a nasty headwind going into Old Minto on the second day of the trip. The wind was so cold that about 15 sled dogs in Colonel Vaughan's group got frostbite on their privates. The Serum Run trekkers had to stay an extra day in Old Minto to replace injured dogs, so Andy and I got a jump on them and stayed ahead until they passed us outside of Tanana.

Andy and I are skiing with backpacks rather than sleds. The system has been working well, but our bones are still creaking at the end of each day. Although we're carrying a tent, we've been able to stay in old cabins, people's houses, or village schools on every night except one. We love staying in warm cabins to let our muscles recover while getting a sense of history.

The Tanana school also was an adventure. When Andy went to the boys' room at night, a bald python surprised him by slithering down the dark hallway. The snake had escaped its cage a few weeks before. In the morning, the school staff was excited to hear of Andy's sighting. They caught it later in the day, curled by a heat lamp.

Wildlife on the trail included three lynx that ambled by us outside of Manley, a wolf pack that used the trail west of Tanana, and the boreal owl that haunted the tall spruce outside the trapper's cabin we stayed at last night.

I'll give updates on our trip as often as I can grab a computer. So far, except for the day the dogs got frostbite, we've had great weather and lots of sun. This trip is the hardest thing I've ever done, but my partner keeps me going through the rough spots. Thanks to all those who have helped us so far, including sponsors at All Weather Sports, Beaver Sports, and the Geophysical Institute Map Office. Only 550 miles to Nome!